Monday, October 31, 2011

Let's take the long way

When we left Opp this morning, we were 76 miles from Fort Walton Beach, our destination for today.  Somewhere in the first ten minutes on the road I missed a turn.  When we had been on the road for an hour, I began to be concerned that I hadn't crossed the Florida line yet and the alarm bells really started going off when we passed the city limit sign for Andalusia, Alabama, instead.  I pulled over and we turned on the Garmin only to find that we were now 84 miles from Fort Walton Beach.  I was not a happy camper!  What should have been no more than an hour and a half drive ended up taking four hours.

We have come to see my brother Jim and his family as well as my mother who now lives with them.  They were supposed to have plenty of room for us to park in their yard, but by now we knew not to count on that, so we checked into the campground at the Fred Gannon Rocky Bayou State Park in Niceville before going on to their house.

The park is named for an Air Force officer who was instrumental in turning the former World War II bombing range into a recreational area.  After our favorable experience with the state park in Opp, it seemed a good choice and was closer to Jim's than any of the regular RV parks.  It has turned out to be a longer drive than it appeared to be on the map, and he has suggested that we try Henderson State Park in Destin.  It's a bit closer and right on the beach, so tomorrow we'll check it out.

Day 44
Opp, AL to Niceville, FL

Daily Mileage:  134.9
Total Mileage:  8,512.1

Sunday, October 30, 2011

Beware of gators

The RV furnace was making a weird sound last night so we turned it off.  This morning the outside temperature was 32 and Nancy had to resort to using her hair drier to warm us up.  We hit the road without ever seeing the park manager.

In Auburn, Alabama, we stopped at a Walmart and picked up several space heaters.


Tonight we are staying at Frank Jackson State Park in Opp, Alabama.  This is our first experience camping in a state park, and we are really pleased.  It's clean, quiet, inexpensive and we're right on the lake.



Plus, we never did see any gators.

Day 43
Martin, GA to Opp, AL

Daily Mileage:  340.9
Total Mileage:  8,377.2

Saturday, October 29, 2011

Are you sure we're heading south?

John was all prepared to fix us breakfast, but we just had coffee, visited a bit more, then hit the road again.  Though our plans had been vague at best, we had expected a longer stay.  I hope we can come back again before our return to Alaska.

Tonight we have made it as far as Martin in northeast Georgia.  When we got here, one of the campers came over and told us to pick whatever spot we liked as the manager was not around. I went to the office about an hour later and he still was nowhere to be found.  The maintenance man let me into the office and tried to do the paperwork.  He charged my credit card for $30 but neither of us was sure it was the right amount.  He reassured me that the manager would come over to the RV as soon as he got back and make sure everything was done right.  It's almost time for bed and I still haven't seen him.

The temperature tonight is supposed to be in the low 30s.  Something is wrong with this picture.

Day 42
Charlotte, NC to Martin, GA

Daily Mileage:  173.6
Total Mileage:  8,036.3

Friday, October 28, 2011

Reunion

We had heavy rain overnight.  By this morning the rain had passed but the clouds remained. They stayed with us as we continued down the Shenandoah Valley and turned south to cross the Blue Ridge Mountains.  Near the top of the mountains, the road climbed right into them and the visibility dropped to just a few car lengths.  By the time it cleared, we were in North Carolina.

We have come to Charlotte to see one of my oldest friends.  I met John at the bus stop on the first day of school in 1956.  The last time I saw him was in 1974.  We reconnected last year through Facebook.

He let us park in his driveway even though it was a tight fit and put us up in his mother-in-law suite for the night.  We are grateful as tonight is supposed to be cold.  We went out to dinner at Mickey and Mooch and had a great meal.  Afterwards, we discovered a new grocery store, Harris Teeter, where we saw our first Buddha's hands, dragon fruit, and South African baby pineapples.  Safeway is never going to seem the same again.

Day 41
Salem, VA to Charlotte, NC

Daily Mileage:  192.3
Total Mileage:  7,862.7

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Two hours/four states

Less than an hour on the road brought us to Maryland.  Ten minutes later, we were in West Virginia (for, what is this now, the fourth time?).  Another 25 minutes and we were crossing the line into Virginia.  Four states in under two hours, you'd think we were back in New England.

This leg of our journey is taking us to Charlotte, North Carolina to see an old friend.  I'm not sure that the route we're taking is the shortest or quickest, but it does have the advantage of bypassing New York City/northern New Jersey, Baltimore/Washington DC, and Richmond. Besides, the Shenandoah Valley is always a nice drive.

We have made it just a little past Roanoke tonight and are staying at the Dixie Caverns. Although the entrance to the caverns is only about 100 feet from our RV, we won't be hanging around long enough in the morning to take the tour.

Day 40
Carlisle, PA to Salem, VA

Daily Mileage:  278.8
Total Mileage:  7,670.4

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

The kill in Plattekill actually means river

Last night's campground was so heavily wooded, it was like camping in a forest.  The down side was the acorns that fell on our roof with every gust of wind.  The upside was that the place was full of wildlife.  This morning I was in the driver's seat a few minutes before the rest were ready.  There seemed to be squirrels and chipmunks every where I looked.  As I watched, one squirrel darted across the road maybe ten feet in front of the RV.  There was a flash of feathers as a hawk shot past and the squirrel was gone.  It was an amazing thing to witness, so sudden it was like watching David Copperfield make an elephant disappear--no sadness, just wonder at where it went.

We made much better progress today, getting as far as southern Pennsylvania.  On the way through Scranton, we stopped at a Wegmans to stock up on goodies.  It seemed a bit older than the one in Canadaigua and not quite as fancy but still very nice.  It sits on a large ledge blasted out of a hillside.  It shares this space with a Walmart.  The Wegmans is doing a land office business; the Walmart is closed!  If this is a snapshot of our economy, then I'm confused.

Our stopover tonight is just a few miles west of Harrisburg, the state capital.  While still above the Mason-Dixon line, we are enjoying a warm, pleasant evening.

Day 39
Plattekill, NY to Carlisle, PA

Daily Mileage:  257.5
Total Mileage:  7,391.6

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

A change of plans

There was some last minute visiting to get in this morning, but we finally got on the road after lunch.  The next leg of our journey was to take us to Manchester, New Hampshire to visit our goddaughter and her family, but she is currently in Las Vegas on business and won't be home until Thursday night.  As much as we would like to see them, the weather's turning and the last of the RV parks closing, and we can not put off heading south for that long.

Our immediate goal is to get below the Mason-Dixon line where, presumably, the nights are warmer and the campgrounds never close.  With our late start, however, we only managed to get as far as Plattekill, a little town just off I-87 about 80 miles north of New York City.

Day 38
North Adams, MA to Plattekill, NY

Daily Mileage:  131.2
Total Mileage:  7,134.1

Monday, October 24, 2011

A day of reminiscing

Dorothy loaned us her car for the day.  It held the three of us just fine but Sadie proved to be a problem so Nancy volunteered to stay at the RV with her.  This turned out to be an excellent arrangement.  Nancy got several hours of alone time and the use of Dorothy's shower while I got to take my time showing Nicole the sights and hopefully breathing life into all those stories of me as a boy.


One of our stops was Jack's, a hole in the wall with a 10 seat lunch counter that has been at the same location and owned by the same family for the last 94 years.  While you can get a few other things there, mostly they sell hot dogs.  We had hot dogs.

Day 37
North Adams, MA

Daily Mileage:  0
Total Mileage:  7,002.9

Sunday, October 23, 2011

North Adams at last

We tried to find my great grandmother's grave this morning.  On our last visit in 1977, Nancy and I had been given directions by my uncle and had found it with little effort.  This time, I couldn't even be sure we were looking in the right cemetery and quickly decided that we were on a fool's errand.  It didn't help much either that the RV is too big for about half the streets in Bennington, never mind the parking spaces.

Abandoning Bennington, we made the eleven mile drive south to Williamstown, Massachusetts, home of Williams College.  Another five miles and we were in South Williamstown where my mother was born.  At that time (1922) her father's father owned a large tract of land here that included a dairy farm and the historic Store at Five Corners.

By the time all the pointing and storytelling and picture taking were done, we had killed all the time we had to kill, plus some, so we headed for Dorothy's.  Half way there (it's about a 20 minute drive) she called to see what had become of us.  We reassured her that we were just minutes away, but then I couldn't resist a couple of short detours, which involved a few more stories and trying to turn the RV around on ridiculously narrow streets (twice), and then a stop for lunch (didn't want to show up at her door hungry) and 10 minutes turned into an hour and a half.  Still, when we finally drove up, she never complained about how long we had taken.  She just greeted us with hugs and told us to park on her front lawn.  Ya gotta love family!



Tonight, she made us dinner.  When we went back out to the RV, the sky was clear and the stars were spectacular.  I could even see the Milky Way.  I hadn't see it for decades and hoped I'd get the chance on this trip.  Now I've seen it twice.  The first time was the night we camped at Devils Tower in Wyoming.

Day 36
Woodford, VT to North Adams, MA

Daily Mileage:  45.8
Total Mileage:  7,002.9

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Break out the long johns

Getting to sleep took awhile, but otherwise I got a good night's rest and woke up feeling much better this morning.  The weather was better as well, still overcast but the rain has passed.

Just before getting onto the New York Thruway, we passed through the little town of Manchester that was having its annual pumpkin festival, apparently the source of considerable excitement hereabouts as the early arrivals already had the police out on the main street directing traffic.  I shutter at the thought of the congestion we would have encountered had we lingered over our morning coffee.

Once on the Thruway, we made very good time; traffic was light and the weather got better the farther east we drove.

We have been led to believe that my cousin Dorothy in North Adams has enough room for us to park the RV.  However, I didn't get around to calling her until this morning to verify that (or to tell her we were just hours away!) and when I did, all I got was her voice mail.  As the miles passed and we hadn't heard back from her, we realized we needed to find an alternate campsite for tonight.  There were only 3 within a reasonable distance from North Adams.  We settled on one near Bennington, Vermont since I have some family history there and had hoped to see it anyway.

The campground is adjacent to the Mt. Prospect Ski Resort in the small town of Woodford, about 8 miles east of Bennington.  After we arrived, Dorothy called.  She assured me that she has room for us and we agreed to meet at her house tomorrow after she gets home from church.

Just as it was getting dark, the park owner came by to ask us to unhook from the water because of the possibility of freezing temperatures overnight.  Brrrrrrr!

Day 35
Canandaigua, NY to Woodford, VT

Daily Mileage:  248.1
Total Mileage:  6,957

Friday, October 21, 2011

Sick day

I have something, I don't know what.  Seems like a cold.  My whole face hurts.  It was cold and windy and rained most of the day.  It was the perfect day to get sick.

Day 34
Canandaigua, NY

Daily Mileage:  0
Total Mileage:  6,709.0

Thursday, October 20, 2011

A great day for food

Still trying to slow down and smell the roses, we have decided to camp here another night.

Canadaigua is a charming old town at the northern tip of Lake Canadaigua, the westernmost of the finger lakes.  Though the weather continues to be overcast and chilly, it is easy to imagine how nice it must be on a fine summer's day.  We drove into town for lunch at Simply Crepes, a small restaurant in an old building on Main Street.  It was simply delicious.

Afterwards, we used the Garmin to locate the nearest grocery store and it took us to Wegmans.  We had never heard of it before.  From the parking lot the store looked fairly new and a bit upscale but otherwise unremarkable.  Once inside, however, we discovered that about half the store looks like a Disney World theme park for foodies.  Everything looked so good, I had to resist buying things that I don't even like.  The chain seems to be concentrated primarily in New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Virginia, but if you ever get the chance to go in one, do not pass it up.

Tonight, Nicole informed us that today didn't meet her definition of a day off the road since we moved the RV, so we have agreed to stay here tomorrow as well and not move an inch.

Day 33
Canandaigua, NY

Daily Mileage:  18.5
Total Mileage:  6,709.0

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

A very long short day

We are trying to take a more laid back approach to the trip, so we chose to head east on Highway 20 rather than taking the New York Thruway.  We should have just paid the toll.

We set out in the rain and by the time we hit the beltway around Buffalo it was a downpour.  Even the GPS couldn't keep us from missing our exit in the rain.  We did eventually manage to find Hwy 20 which goes right through Canadaigua, but about 20 miles short of our destination, the Garmin gremlin decided to have a little fun and recalculated our route, sending us off on a roundabout tour of side roads and small towns.  By the time we realized our mistake, turning around and backtracking made even less sense, so we soldiered on.

It is now early afternoon and we have settled in.  It took about 3 hours to go the last 90 miles and I'm plum tuckered.

Day 32
Niagara Falls, NY to Canandaigua, NY

Daily Mileage:  105.0
Total Mileage:  6,690.5

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

A tale of two cities

Before leaving the Canadian side, we had lunch at a sports bar called Mick and Angelo's.  I tried their Canadiana burger;  It was just like an Americana burger, but with less taste.  We also drove along the river for one last look at the falls from that side.

In 1954, or maybe '55, my parents brought my brother and me to the American side to see the falls, which was, for a 9 year old boy, quite literally the only thing to do here back then.  A ride on the Maid of the Mist was the high point of any non-honeymooning visitor.  As the Canadians turned their side of the river into a mini-Disney/Vegas/New Orleans hybrid, our side has become the equivalent of the nose-bleed section or the cheap seats.  Hell, even the Maid of the Mist only docks in Canada now!

Nevertheless, we would have stopped for a few minutes to check out the view had we been able to find any RV parking.  We didn't.  The best we could do was a lot several blocks from the river used by the tour buses and we only stay there long enough to program the Garmin for the closest RV park.

The route it plotted took us through a rundown section of town full of boarded up buildings and poorly maintained streets.  While it is tempting to generalize from this that the entire city has fallen on hard times, the truth is that it was a black area and has probably been decaying for decades.

Day 31
Niagara Falls, Ontario to Niagara Falls, NY

Daily Mileage:  19.4
Total Mileage:  6,585.5

Monday, October 17, 2011

Dining in the sky

We only had water and electric hookups last night so this morning we had to dump the tanks. We circled the entire park twice before we stopped and got directions to the dump site.

Once on the road, we ran into strong winds that continued all the way to Niagara Falls.  By the time we got there, the wind was absolutely howling.  The Skylon Tower was our first stop. The wind in the parking lot was so strong it rocked the RV and outside we could barely stand up. The Tower is famous for its revolving restaurant.  Nancy has a problem with heights, so was happy to stay in the RV with Sadie while Nicole and I went up for lunch.  The food was excellent and the view from 775 feet above the Niagara River was super.  We did the whole tourist thing, paid for an overpriced souvenir photo of us with the falls in the background, and had a marvelous time.


We are in an RV park about 3 miles from the falls.  Right across the street is a gentlemen's club. This city has more sex related businesses than I have ever seen in one place.  So much for honeymoons and romance.


The falls are lighted at night so about 8:00 we drove back to see them.  We had a hard time finding a place to park the RV in the dark but finally did and walked to Horseshoe Falls.



Day 30
Port Glasgow, Ontario to Niagara Falls, Ontario

Daily Mileage:  182.3
Total Mileage:  6,566.1

Sunday, October 16, 2011

On the road again

Our next destination is going to be Niagara Falls and we are taking the shortcut through Canada to get there.  We were originally planning to stay through the weekend and leave first thing Monday morning, but the Ambassador Bridge to Windsor, Ontario is located in downtown Detroit, and the thought of driving in morning rush hour traffic made us rethink the plan.

Departure was moved back to today.  We would take our time breaking camp, leave whenever we were ready, and make it a short day on the road, driving for a few hours then stopping early for the night.  Then we discovered that the Detroit Marathon was being run this morning, that the race route was through downtown Detroit and across the Ambassador Bridge, and that a record number of participants had signed up!  Suddenly, an early afternoon departure seemed like an excellent idea.

This worked out fine as the sisters plus Ron all showed up at the RV to join us for lunch and send us off in style.  We picked a restaurant just down the street from the Moose Lodge, and I tried pastitso, Greek lasagna, for the first time.  I'm a closet Italian and generally not a big fan of Greek cuisine, but I'd definitely order this one again.

We hit the road about 1:00.  We dumped one last time and stopped for gas and then went the wrong way to get on I-75.  Downtown, we ran into some detours that looked like they were race related and not all the lanes on the bridge were open, but thankfully there was only light traffic.

This was our third encounter with customs and our first at a major border crossing.  There was a few minutes delay because we picked the wrong line (temporarily closed, maybe for a shift change) and we were about the 7th car in line, but the whole thing still only took about 15 minutes.  The only real difference to me was the customs agent who was young and seemed disappointed that I gave him no reason to shoot me.

It was 2:00 before we cleared customs and another half hour or more before we were actually back on the open road, so we didn't get too far today.  As has been the case everywhere, open RV parks are hard to find.  The one were in tonight will close for the season at the end of this month.  We are camped right on Lake Erie, and though the weather is windy and cool, it is a lovely spot.


Day 29
Taylor, MI to Port Glasgow, Ontario

Daily Mileage:  113.0
Total Mileage:  6,383.8

Saturday, October 15, 2011

A series of fortunate events

We knew from the start that we wanted an awning on the RV before we hit the Sun Belt.  When we discovered that there was a large Camping World within a dozen miles of Taylor, we thought it would be the ideal place to get one.  Nothing, it seems, is ever that simple.

We plan to leave town tomorrow and wanted one installed today, but awnings, you see, are usually made to order and take weeks to get installed, and it didn't matter anyway because all the installers were booked solid for today and tomorrow Camping World is closed.

Nevertheless, tonight we have a brand new awning on our RV and we got it for less than half price due to a combination of  sales, clearances, discounts, human error, and human kindness;  to my mind, truly a series of fortunate events.

Day 28
Taylor, MI

Daily Mileage:  27.2
Total Mileage:  6,270.8

Friday, October 14, 2011

JoAnn to the rescue

The rain and cold have returned.

We started the day by resuming our search for the dump site.  We really didn't have much choice.  It turned out to be about 6 miles away at Bill's RV Storage in the town of Sibley.  Not exactly convenient, but apparently the owner, Rick(?), is a Moose and only charges $5 for folks camping in the lodge parking lot.

We also ended the day in the RV driving out to Camping World to see about having an awning installed.

In between was a lot of shopping that left me needing a nap.

While the used RV was a real bargain, the downside was that it was used.  And in the case of the dinette seat cushions, abused.  We had thought we could get them replaced, but the business model of RV remodelers seems to assume that their customers are all rock stars or hedge fund managers who want to gut the old bus and start all over from scratch.  "No job too small" is definitely not their motto.

Enter Nancy's sister JoAnn.  She took one look at the cushions and said, "I can fix those.  All I need is . . ."  Hence, the shopping.  It took less than $100 in supplies and about an hour of work and the cushions were almost as good as new;  and the best part, she let me nap while she did it.

Day 27
Taylor, MI

Daily Mileage:  44.0
Total Mileage:  6,243.6

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Here comes the sun

What a difference a day makes.  Yesterday we rode a cold front into town.  It was cold, wet, and windy.  This morning dawned sunny and warm.

Our waste water tanks are almost full, so we asked where the dump site was located.  The lady in the Moose Lodge office had an address written on a slip of paper in her desk, but it turned out she really had no idea where it was and we spent half an hour this morning in the RV trying unsucessfully to locate the place.  Fortunately, we were planning to spend the rest of the day visiting family.

Nancy and her four sisters plus a couple of nieces and grand nieces got together at sister Jean's house out in Commerce Township for lunch.  Betty's husband Ron and I were the token males.


We had left the Garmin in the RV.  On the way back to sister JoAnn's in Dearborn, I missed an exit and we got lost.  I was surprised that Nancy didn't know the way, but after being gone for four decades I guess her mental map of the greater Detroit area is both fuzzy and out of date.

Day 26
Taylor, MI

Daily Mileage:  12.7
Total Mileage:  6,199.6

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

It was a dark and stormy day

It rained most of the night and was it was still coming down as we prepared to leave.  Just as I was about to start the engine, Franklin Jones walked up to the driver side window in his rain gear and started a conversation.  It took him at least 5 minutes to say good-bye.  The man does love to talk.

West on I-70 and in 17 miles we were back in West Virginia!  Another 16 miles brought us to Bridgeport, Ohio.  Lunch was at April's Country Kitchen in Newcomerstown, Ohio; excellent food, ridiculously cheap.  By 4:00, we reached Toledo and crossed into Michigan.  An hour later, we were hooking up to water and electric in the parking lot of the Taylor Moose Family Center.

It rained the whole way.

Day 25
Washington, PA to Taylor, MI

Daily Mileage:  363.0
Total Mileage:  6,186.9

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

We're in West Virginia again?

We are now bound for Michigan.  Most of today was spent crossing Maryland, but by mid-afternoon we found ourselves passing through West Virginia again, 48 miles of it this time, and we finished the day in Washington, Pennsylvania, a small town about 20 miles southwest of Pittsburgh.

The scenery along this route through the Appalachians is especially lovely this time of year with the fall foliage near its peak, and the views are often spectacular, which I think is great but gives Nancy the heebie jeebies, to use the technical term, as she has a thing about heights.

To reach the KOA park for tonight, we had to leave the Interstate and go to a small town then drive several miles of winding, hilly, narrow (about a lane and a half wide, maybe--it's hard to judge as there were no lane markings) rural roads.  As we climbed the final hill to the RV park, Nancy was joking that at least we didn't have to worry about getting a spot and I said that we should get extra points just for being able to locate them.  Were we in for a surprise.

We got the last spot they had and from the sound of it, maybe in all of southwestern Pennsylvania.

Seems that about 3 years ago, a ginormous gas deposit was discovered here and the economy has been going gang busters ever since.  Housing is hard to come by and many gas field workers are permanent residents of RV parks like this one.  The expectation is that the good times will continue for the next 30 years.  And on top of that, they have since discovered a huge lake of oil beneath all that gas.

So far, our experience with RV parks has ranged from ones that were virtually empty to a few that were nearly full, but we rarely had someone camped in the space right next to us. Tonight, of course, we have people on both sides and the one on the side facing our door is uber friendly.  His name is Franklin Delano Roosevelt Jones and no, he is not black.  He was born in Tampa, is a 72 year old retired welder, has been RVing since 1961, and boy, oh boy, can that man talk!

Day 24
Abingdon, MD to Washington, PA

Daily Mileage:  294.3
Total Mileage:  5,823.9

Monday, October 10, 2011

I got them Highway 40 blues

It was only supposed to be a short trip up Highway 40, but then the dump truck in front of us ejected a small boulder and I spent the rest of the day getting a new windshield.



Day 23
Abingdon, MD

Daily Mileage:  86.2
Total Mileage:  5,529.6

Sunday, October 9, 2011

The only RV in Baltimore

We are about 20 miles north of Baltimore.  We had heard that the Inner Harbor was very cool (Rachel Ray had a swell time there on only $40) and so we decided it would be a cracker jack idea to see it for ourselves.  I had some reservations about the parking but, not wanting dampen the mood, kept them to myself.  My secret hope was that the visitors center had a parking lot big enough to handle the RV.

The Inner Harbor is a very popular place, even on a Sunday morning, and I hope someday to see it.  Mr. Garmin got us to the visitors center without a hitch, but I drove right past without stopping because the only parking lot entrance I saw looked more like a pedestrian walkway than a driveway.  I never actually saw the parking lot, but I'm guessing it was not huge.

The streets are narrow, most of the parking is in garages with 6 1/2 foot clearance limits, and the traffic was bumper to bumper.  I just went with the flow until it finally spit me out into an old residential neighborhood.  By then, I hardly knew which end was up and just wanted to find any place big enough to pull over and catch my breath.  I drove for blocks without finding a thing.

Finally in frustration, Nicole grabbed the Garmin and located a Safeway just a few blocks away.


In less than 5 minutes, we were parked in the shade of a tree out behind the store.  Although, it turned out that the harbor was just across the street, we were over 2 miles from the tourist area.  Not to waste the trip, we went inside and did some grocery shopping.

Day 22
Abingdon, MD

Daily Mileage:  57.8
Total Mileage:  5,443.4

Saturday, October 8, 2011

In a nut shell

Drive up the Shenandoah Valley, turn right and drive 14 miles through West Virginia, head east, drive around Baltimore, find Chesapeake Bay, stop.


Collect your reward.

Day 21
Edinburg, VA to Abingdon, MD

Daily Mileage:  158.9
Total Mileage:  5,385.6

Friday, October 7, 2011

Someday I'll see Monticello

We started and ended the day in the Shenandoah Valley, but to do so we had to cross the Blue Ridge Mountains twice because of a side trip to Monticello.

When we were talking about what places we'd like to see on this trip, Monticello was one both Nicole and I voted for.  The exact route for the trip, however, was always vague and subject to change and we never got organized enough to actually research any of our intended stops. Besides, I knew that Monticello was on a hill somewhere in Virginia and that Thomas Jefferson lived there once, so what else could I possibly need to look up.

Well, turns out there was one or two things.  Such as the fact that the house is invisible from the parking lot/visitor center, that you can walk up and see it for free but it is quite a hike and you don't get to go inside, and that the paid tours that include a bus ride up and back and a guided tour of the house take two hours and need to be booked in advance--online.

Somehow, it no longer seemed worth the effort, at least this time around, so we chalked it up to experience and resumed our journey, which brings us tonight to a peaceful creekside camping spot just a block off the main street of the charming town of Edinburg.


Day 20
Lexington, VA to Edinburg, VA

Daily Mileage:  177.8
Total Mileage:  5,226.7

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Almost heaven

We woke to fog again this morning, but unlike yesterday, it cleared before we started traveling.  Milton is not far from the Ohio River.  Heading east, we immediately began climbing into the mountains.  It wasn't long before we saw fog in the hills around us, though the road remained clear.  By the time we reached Charleston, the capital, about an hour into the trip, the fog had begun to to look suspiciously like smog.

Driving through Charleston, my attention was focused on the road and the traffic, so my impression comes mostly from the occasional sideways glance and may be unduly harsh, but the town seemed rather drab, and a bit dilapidated, which made the capital dome which is covered in 23 1/2 karat gold leaf stand out like bling on a beggar.  

At noon, we exited the Interstate at Beckley and used the Garmin to locate a grocery store.  We then decided to get really adventuresome and used it to get directions to a Taco Bell.  We found it along with about half a dozen other fast food restaurants on one side of a 2-lane road that had bumper to bumper traffic in both directions and no traffic lights.  Of course, they were all on the other side of the road.  We eventually got into the Taco Bell parking lot and got lunch for Nicole.  Nancy and I weren't in the mood for Mexican and decided to go to Chick-fil-A, a place we used to like when we lived in the Pacific Northwest but hadn't been to one since.  Unfortunately, none of the fast food parking lots are linked, so we had to get on the highway to get back to it.  Silly me, I assumed that the traffic would have eased up at least a little by the time we were ready to get back on the road, but no, it was still a steady stream in both directions.  When we finally made it across and were on our way again, we found the traffic went on like that for over a mile with absolutely no indication of where everyone was coming from or where they were going.

Apart from the cities, I did find West Virginia very picturesque, though I'm sure my view would be less charitable if our route had take us passed any of the strip mines or topless mountains.

Tonight we are staying at a truck stop/camp grounds in the Shenandoah Valley.

Day 19
Milton, WV to Lexington, VA

Daily Mileage:  219.1
Total Mileage:  5,048.9


  












Wednesday, October 5, 2011

I had to see the serpent

We woke to thick fog that persisted for over an hour after we hit the road, so I have no idea what that part of Ohio looks like, but by the time we reached Serpent Mound, it was bright and sunny once again.

Located about 45 miles east of Cincinnati, Serpent Mound is miles from any major road and there is minimal signage, so they clearly don't get many visitors.  The Garmin was some help, but I still managed to a miss a turn going through the metropolis of Locust Grove.

The quarter mile long effigy mound, believed to have been built around 1100 AD by Fort Ancient Indians, is on a spur of rock overlooking Ohio Brush Creek at the edge of a massive, 300 million year old crater.  The loops of the snake's body mark the direction of numerous annual events such as sunrise on the summer solstice, but no one really knows what motivated its builders.

For them, it was obviously a special place, probably even sacred.  For the modern visitor, however, the artistry, astronomical knowledge, and physical effort on display here have so little in common with the world as we know it that, sadly, the site can register as little more than an interesting oddity.


There is a 2 story wooden tower to give you a better idea of the overall layout of the mound and I took a bunch of pictures from it, but the only way to really see what's here is with an aerial photograph.  This is the best shot I could get, and it really doesn't do it justice.  The head of the snake is in the distance on the right, the tail to the left.  Enlarge the photo to see the people on the path to give a better sense of scale.

After lunch in the parking lot, we backtracked to the main highway then headed south.  At Portsmouth, we crossed the Ohio River into Kentucky and followed it upstream into West Virginia where we've tucked in for the night.

Day 18
Columbus, OH to Milton, WV

Daily Mileage:  228.4
Total Mileage:  4,829.8

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Finally, a GPS

It was a very short, easy day on the road and we reached Columbus a little before noon.  We have had sunshine and blue sky all the way from the Canadian Rockies, and this morning was more of the same, but as we neared the city, the sky turned dark and stormy.  We were met on the outskirts by Jason, the son of Nancy's niece, and he told us that it had been raining there for the past week.  Within half an hour of our arrival, however, the sun came out and the rest of the day has been warm and beautiful.

Jason helped us find a nearby RV Park then chauffeured us around to do some shopping and sightseeing. We had quite a list of things we needed, but the best thing we bought, hands down, was a Garmin GPS.  We had intended to get one in Anchorage, but ran out of time and didn't.  Not having ever had one before, I couldn't really appreciate what a lifesaver it could be.  That all changed with Edmonton and Billings, but I waited to buy it here because Jason is tech savvy and, well, I'm not.

We had lunch then he drove us around downtown a little.  The last time I was here was 1965 and it's just amazing what a difference 46 years can make.  They've even torn down the Ohio State Penitentiary.  What's the world coming to?


Nicole was looking for a book, so he took us to The Book Loft in Germantown.  An old building with a maze-like 32 rooms crammed with books, posters, and miscellaneous cool stuff, it defies description.


Afterwards, he took us to Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams.  They make all their own ice cream and yogurt and their selection of flavors puts Baskin Robbins to shame.  The Food Network even did a piece on them.  This is the mural on the side of their building in downtown Columbus.


Day 17
Richmond, IN to Columbus, OH

Daily Mileage:  107.2
Total Mileage:  4,601.4

Monday, October 3, 2011

What if I don't want to go to Chicago?

Today's journey took us across Illinois and almost all of Indiana.  If you can believe the signs, every single road in either state leads to Chicago.  Only trouble with that is that I'm trying to get to Columbus.

After one rest stop in Illinois, we pulled back onto the highway behind a truck carrying a wind turbine blade.  I quickly realized that a second truck with the same load was right behind me. I let it pass me, and as it went by, Nicole took this picture out the window.


Seen up close and personal, these suckers are really, really BIG.

Day 16
Davenport, IA to Richmond, IN

Daily Mileage:  396.9
Total Mileage:  4,494.2

Sunday, October 2, 2011

A different kind of farm

It may be just my imagination, but the terrain seemed to change noticeably from South Dakota to Minnesota, much flatter in Minnesota though still hilly.

There appears to be a noticeable difference in social attitudes between the two states, as well. Though both states allow bill boards, Minnesota seems to have a much stricter set-back requirement--like maybe 1000 feet!  The signs sit in the farm fields so far off the road that the ads have to be short and in very large letters to be readable from the highway.

And then there are the wind farms.  We saw some on the Canadian prairie and a few in Montana but none in South Dakota.  About 35 miles into Minnesota, however, we passed one with several hundred wind turbines.  Before turning south into Iowa, we saw many more, although none approached this one in size.  Iowa also has wind farms but their enthusiasm for them does not seem to match Minnesota's.

Around mid-afternoon, we entered the hill country of eastern Iowa and were delighted with the sudden abundance of trees.  For over 2,000 miles, we have been traveling through country where trees exist only along water courses and in places of human habitation, so to see them growing everywhere, willy-nilly, seemed little short of miraculous.  

Day 15
Rapid City, South Dakota to Davenport, Iowa
Daily Mileage:  434.1
Total Mileage:  4,097.3

Saturday, October 1, 2011

A day in South Dakota

Today we traversed South Dakota on I-90.  It crosses the state north of the Bad Lands, but in a few spots actually runs through them.  At least I assume that what I saw was the Bad Lands because they were the most convoluted "flat" land I have ever seen, appearing nearly impassable for anyone on foot or horseback.

It was easy driving in the morning.  Somewhere around noon we crossed into the Central Time Zone and the rest of the day I had to battle a fierce cross wind.  Just a coincidence, I'm sure.

Apparently, South Dakota never got Lady Bird Johnson's memo on bill boards.  Folks here are mighty fond of them.  While they aren't allowed on the Interstate right-of-way, that strip of land is quite narrow, probably only 50 or 60 feet wide, the signs sprout from the farm fields as close to the boundary fence as humanly possible.

In addition to the usual messages like ads for the Dakota Winds Motel--wonder where they got the idea for that name--there is an interesting mix of religious messages and ads for adult entertainment centers.

Since our goal for today was to make the best time possible, we decided to save Laura Ingalls Wilder's house and the George McGovern Museum for another trip.  We even blew right past Mitchell's world famous Corn Palace, despite the fact that my mother has been telling me for years that it's a must see.

Day 14
Rapid City, South Dakota to Sioux Falls, South Dakota

Daily Mileage:  353.7
Total Mileage:  3,663.2